Beiträge von Eric Z

If you drain coolant, lookup the procedure to remove air as well.

It something allong those lines:

Fan speed lowest but still on

Temp at highest option

Select eco pro, this was missing on a lot of forum posts.

Then floor the accelerator for 10 seconds

Start the car, tacho will give confirmation that you are starting a procedure. Let it run for 8 to 12 minutes. It will give a message on the tacho again that it is finished.

Then fill up coolant if needed.

I do only have access to ISTA in the workshop of a family member, so can not look it up for you. Maybe some else over here can help you out on that. Or confirm those are all the required steps.

Remove the black housing indeed, 3 bolts in it. 2 in the front, and one in the back. 2 in front are yellow in my edit.

With all this, I love the simplicity of wrenching on my (former) e46 even more. I’d rarely needed to lookup procedures, programming etc. It’s getting harder to work on your own stuff, but happy to share.

I do appreciate other forums / post sharing useful info on here a lot. But the technical stuff is easier to read than to write for me as German is not my native language.

My alternator/starter was broken, replaced with one from a crashed X6 because the alternator was hard to get at that time. Like 2 months delivery from OEM, nothing aftermarket and refurbished was more expensive than new.

So if I recall correctly from that.

Remove engine insulation at the front.

“Bild-003”, eventually the coolant hose to have space for your wrench to release the belt. From the bottom arrow, down there release the hose. Flexible enough to move out of the way. Do not let anything fall in it!

Then you’ve drawn the arrow over the bolt of the throttle, and you can still see one. There is a third one at the back. Then release the connectors of the throttle, before you do not really have space to release them.

AGR is not completely removed, but I do not remember if some part above the throttle was removed as well to make some space. (Center arrow)

Original procedure states using locking tools. But your new spanner probably comes locked in place.

For removal of the belt we managed to do it by being with 2 persons. One to release the belts tension another to remove the belt itself.

Torque specs, can not remember that.

I did remove some coolant hoses, and the small coolant reservoir. Because I had to maneuver the alternator/starter in place. Probably not required for you.

Be careful with the hard coolant line coming out of the larger coolant tank near the driver side headlight. It broke by accident.

And I know the same happend to my sister’s 550i in the past.

Zitat von Fuexi

Der Preis ist ja irre für ein Teil was auf eBay vercheckt wird. Was kostet denn dann das Original

€1710,10 fur die vollständige gelenkwelle ohne arbeit.

Zitat von Lefty

Ich wäre da sehr misstrauisch, oftmals wird da billiger China Mist verramscht.

China, maybe? Aber die kwalitat von BMW von letzten jahren… Die ruckruf is nicht vor nix da.

Ebay das ist die variant for 530d LCI.

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Ich habe es selbst durch ein Aftermarket-Teil ersetzt, BMW tauscht die komplette Antriebswelle aus.

Das ist von mir einen Monat bevor de Rückrufaktion gestartet is. +-230k km.

DIY: Rear Differential Shaft Seal Replacement - F25 X3 35i - BIMMERPOST

Recently replaced both the input shaft seal and output shaft seals on the rear differential of my 2015 X3 35i. This can be used for other models, but note...

x3.xbimmers.com

Step 9 from that link describes exactly what I’m looking for. So no we’ve to wait for the parts to come in.

Zitat von noobontour

Write it down in english please. Otherwise noone could really help because your post is something with a lot of words but completly without sense.

Alright, my Deutsch is good enough to order a schnitzel but not to talk about technical topics on cars.

Pictures shows the driveshaft coupling after replacement 32.000km ago. I’d rather had no look at it but unfortunatly I was there for another issue.

That issue being the differential (input) flange coming from the drive shaft which is worn out. So the driveshaft will spin but the differential will not. So the car will not move forward or backwards.

In the last picture you can see that all splines are gone.

The differential itself is fine.

That input flange is not sold by BMW but can be found elsewhere, BMW only sells the whole driveshaft.

Now on the differential is a nut with a double function. The flange/driveshaft (wrench 50) and the pinion shaft (star? 65). I did not and will rather not touch the star nut of the pinoin shaft, because that might change the adjustments of my differential.

I did find the part number for a replacement nut to put the driveshaft back in. But I am wondering if there is a specific procedure for that nut so that it is properly mounted. So I won’t end up on the side of the road again without drive.

Ich kann Deutsch besser lesen als schreiben, da es auch nicht meine Muttersprache ist. Sorry! Ich habe die vorherige Nachricht daher etwas angepasst, damit sie hoffentlich besser verständlich ist.

Ich suche nach der richtigen Vorgehensweise, um die Kardanwelle am Differenzial zu montieren, sodass die Mutter korrekt gesichert ist.

Edit, doppelt die nachricht.

Zitat von Eric Z

+- 210.000 km hinten. So sah das aus, ist mir aufgefallen als ich wegen dem AdBlue-Fehler unter das Auto geschaut hab. Neues is jetz bestellt.

32.000 km später es sieht aus wie bilder.

Schade das ich das ansehen muss, die “input flange” is verschlissen.

Hatte jemand die anleitung fur die mutter auf

differenzial? Die flange ist nicht von BMW verfugbar, aber ist auf Ebay zu finden. BMW hat nur die asche vollständig.

Die nuss ist teile 33 12 7 607 158 aber ist das austeichend zu tausch die input flange?